By Jim Borneman, Editor In Chief

The “January 2024 Manufacturing ISM® Report On Business®”on TextileWorld.com in the Breaking News section suggests that business will remain challenged as 2024 takes shape.

Manufacturing in general has not been the robust consecutive growth story of the recent past, rather, the January reports shows it is the 15th consecutive month of contraction of U.S. manufacturing industries, “following one month of‘unchanged’ status and 28 months of growth prior to that.”

That two years of consecutive monthly growth was a great growth underpinning that textiles’two reporting sectors — “Apparel, Leather & Allied Products”and “Textile Mills” — generally did well.

The bright side is that both textile sectors were two of four sectors reporting growth in the January 2024 report, while the 13 other industries reported contraction.

There is a lot of blame to go around. Inflation, higher interest rates, election year politics and war are all things that can make businesses pause.

Inflation and interest rates are factors that can really highlight age. Inflation — for those who may never have experienced it — is a real pocketbook smack for consumers, who for years have grown accustomed to stable base prices and frequent sales.

All of a sudden, base prices rise significantly, are sticky and sales don’t happen as often. And prices don’t head back down, even with the talking heads saying “all is well, inflation is waning …”

Falling inflation rates don’t address the price increases already in place, and signal that consumers can expect higher prices at a lower rate — this is good news? It’s akin to saying,“I’ve gained twenty pounds in the last year, and it looks like I will continue to gain weight, but at a lower rate,” which is not what a cardiologist wants to hear.

With years of artificially low interest rates established by the Federal Reserve, free money — loans taken at very low interest rates — created an unusual investment environment.
The decision on making multi-million dollar investments changes drastically when the risk-free-rate-of-return approaches 5 percent. That just means that investors — and banks — can make 5 percent on their money with no risk — say by investing in Treasury Bonds — rather than lending to capital intensive industries like manufacturing.

Will rate cuts happen in 2024? Who knows. But seasoned manufacturers have seen this before. The concerns are two-fold. Will consumer demand be there when new capacity comes online? And is the environment stable enough to invest? Is it time to be cautious and play wait-and-see?

Innovation, creative destruction and reinventing stalling sectors are concepts that don’t wait-and-see well.

The U.S. textile industry has survived, and even thrived, during more challenging times. There is no shortage of energy and investment going into advanced sectors
of the industry, but there are some tough stories in textiles right now including plant closings and import pressures. However, if the industry continues to fight forward and face the challenges as the year takes shape — it may be difficult, but just maybe 2024 holds more promise than expected.

January/February 2024

After a fairly manageable spring and summer 2023 schedule, Textile World editors saw no shortage of events fill the fall calendar as the new year quickly approached.

Shows, meetings and events of all stripes dominated the industry calendar — a welcome turn from the bleak days of COVID seclusion, and healthy sign that the industry is curious, outgoing and searching for new ideas and innovations.

Meeting old friends and making new connections is a great feature of the old school face-to-face event schedule. Strong themes including sustainability, recycling, traceability throughout supply chains, efficient manufacturing, near shoring and technical applications, dominated conversations.

With the overhang of an uncertain economy, investment activity and the search for innovative technologies continues to be center stage.

In some areas, like fiber recycling — or better yet fiber “regeneration”— there seems to be a maturing theme as budding technologies are taking hold.

Recently, a press release posted in TextileWorld.com’s “Breaking News” section informed readers about a new company, Reju, formed by Technip Energies, IBM Corp. and Under Armour to “address the fast-growing market of global rPET.” According to the news release, global rPET — recycled polyester —demand from the textile market is “expected to grow up to 20 [million tonnes per annum] by 2033, driven by industry pledges and targets on recycling, regulation and consumer awareness of the need to reduce plastic waste.”

Apparently, the trio of codevelopers have been working together since 2021 to bring IBM’s VolCat technology to a commercial level and using the “molecular sorter” to regenerate polyester indefinitely.

According to Reju, former Under Armour CEO and apparel industry veteran Patrik Frisk will lead the new company along with Alain Poincheval as COO, a senior executive with Technip Energies. Arnaud Pieton, CEO of Technip Energies, stated: “Globally, less than 1 percent of PET textiles waste is recycled today. This means that most textiles end up as waste in landfills when they could be repeatedly reused in new clothes. What has been holding the world back in textile circularity is not a lack of demand for textile recycling but the lack of a solution that makes recycling of textiles economical on an industrial scale.”

This is just one of many stories illustrating the dynamic nature of today’s textile industry— and the importance of circularity in textiles.

This issue of TW is an interesting mix of stories. On one hand, it presents coverage of the many events that have recently sparked industry conversations, and on the other hand features continued technology coverage from the many innovations showcased at ITMA 2023.

It may seem as if the ITMA coverage will never end, but that is a narrow view. If one stands back and considers things from a technology perspective, what a display of real invention, innovation and creativity there is to explore from ITMA. Consider the hours and level of investment made to bring new manufacturing concepts to a commercial level and then educate the global industry about the potential these new technologies present— it really is an incredible opportunity for the textile industry.

It is heartening to see major players like IBM and Under Amour take a stake in textiles— a challenging industry, but one that always looks to innovation to power a bright future.

November/December 2023

By Jim Borneman, Editor In Chief

Innovative textile machinery has been re-crated and shipped on, booths have been carefully disassembled, and exhibitors and attendees have returned home to process the events of a successful ITMA 2023.

The European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX) hosted 1,709 exhibitors from 47 countries in a net exhibition space of 118,300 square meters while some 111,000 visitors from 143 countries made their way through the halls. All now attempt to absorb what they witnessed at the “world’s showcase for textile machinery.”

By most accounts, ITMA 2023 was lauded a great success by exhibitors and attendees alike. Now digesting the many new innovations becomes the focus of the work at hand. “How will these new technologies impact my manufacturing capabilities?” “What investments could be real game-changers?” and “How does my company evaluate the impact and opportunity of new technologies and their underlying trends?” are just some of the questions that will be considered.

Post-ITMA analysis is never an easy task, but this ITMA has thrown some real gasoline on the technology fire as the industry faces so many challenges of improving efficiencies, going greener, and maybe rethinking entire business models.

Textile World editors get to help with this matter at hand, lending a hand in exploring the many developments offered by this year’s ITMA exhibitors.

The coverage won’t be perfect, but over the next several issues, TW editors will explore sector-by-sector the latest advances in textile technology and the opportunities they present to the industry.

In addition to the regular TW staff, various professors and researchers from North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles have offered their expertise in providing TW ’s readers insights and analysis into observations of technology presented at ITMA 2023. TW is grateful for their many insightful contributions and their continuing work at the university.

That said, the one major take-away is the sheer volume of new ideas and technology presented at ITMA — some incremental, some very new — all have a place in the changing business environment U.S. textile manufacturing faces.

And the opportunity for investment comes at a great time. Or does it? Well, timing is
in the eye of the beholder, but there is an appetite for new investment and investment that helps tell a company’s story. That story may be a reshoring investment, a green technology investment or even a startup. But of late, most of the investment news has been about expansion and refitting — both ripe for having a look at a new, possibly more efficient ways of producing textiles.

Collaboration is key. Many of the contacts made at ITMA will lead to trial work, product development and new process testing, as well as proof-of-concept projects.

ITMA is never a one-and-done story, — more like a spike in the process, a catalyst for moving forward and looking for new opportunities that capitalize on existing core competencies that need to be renewed and refreshed. It is a shot in the arm that can help stimulate and show businesses a new way or maybe a better way to achieve a textile manufacturing success story.

September/October 2023

By Jim Borneman, Editor In Chief

Manufacturers, brands and retailers are getting the message. Consumers are interested and want to know more about the products in their life. From the food they eat to the clothes they wear, consumers want to know more than ever where products come from, how wholesome the ingredients are and what impact they have on the environment — both as they are produced and after they are consumed.

One doesn’t have to look back too far to see how dramatic this transformation has been. Who knew the tree hugging, Birkenstock wearing, granola eaters of  the late-1960s were ahead of their time?

The mainstreaming of environmental awareness demands manufacturers, brands and retailers get on board or be lost, awash in the green tide.

It wasn’t that long ago the concept of sustainability was something new and it established a need for transparency throughout supply chains.

Early pioneers — like Ray Anderson, the founder and chairman of modular carpet manufacturer Interface Inc. — put the impact of industry on the environment at the center of his company’s culture. Sustainable production and consumption were essential to Anderson, who passed away in 2011.The Ray C. Anderson Foundation was established in his memory to perpetuate Anderson’s notion of “ … businesses doing well by doing good,”and continue his legacy. The foundation notes, “It’s these noble qualities of advancing knowledge  and innovation around environmental stewardship and sustainability that recognized Ray as a pioneer in industrial ecology.”

Along the way, the industry learned that cost saving initiatives that reduced water, power and chemical consumption were not only good for business and the environment, but also curried favor with brands and retailers. At the time, who knew brands were even interested?

Today, communicating the environmental impact of products has become an integral part of marketing, branding and personal relations.

Industry response to downstream industry demands couldn’t be more clearly demonstrated than in the “PFAS In The News” feature in this issue of Textile World. Executive Editor Rachael Davis explores the multifaceted debate of the use of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), particularly in textiles. But PFAS chemistry is everywhere and used in countless consumer and industrial applications.

Known for conferring performance properties as a repellent finish and more, chemistry based on the powerful chemical bond between fluorine and carbon molecules was a magical discovery that led to the development of thousands of chemical compounds.

Now, government regulation, industry and the consumer are driving innovation and change in the world of PFAS chemistry. An informed debate is essential here because not all PFAS are the same. And it can be argued that in some applications PFAS chemistry is necessary to achieve the performance required for some very highly technical products.

Real change is happening in products that are less performance oriented or those that can achieve the necessary performance attributes with alternative chemistries.

A rush to judgment and government regulation is concerning, but pivoting to less concerning chemistries when possible may not be such a bad outcome.

July/August 2023

During a panel discussion titled “Past, Present & Future”held during the Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association’s (SYFA’s) 50th anniversary celebration, U.S. textile industry leaders shed light on the challenges their companies face as well as the significance of sustainability issues on their businesses.

The concept of sustainability has under-gone significant transformation over the years. Early initiatives focused on conserving water, gas, and electricity, as well as integrating recycling into the manufacturing process. But today, the concept extends much further. Textile products are now designed with sustainability in mind, taking into account the entire product lifecycle, manufacturing processes, with an eye on carbon neutrality.

One executive on the SYFA panel emphasized the importance of viewing sustainability broadly, stating,“When discussing sustainability, we often concentrate solely on environmental aspects, but it is crucial to consider the sustainability of the entire industry.

‘It’s not just about the raw materials; it’s about the people, the energy, and utilizing resources efficiently. When major retailers like Walmart prioritize sustainability, it goes beyond installing solar panels on their store roofs. It permeates every aspect of their operations. They push their suppliers to embrace sustainability in the same way they have demanded cost reductions.”

Virtually all panel members expressed concerns about the sustainability of their workforce.They emphasized the need to attract and recruit young talent, provide education and training, and establish mentorship pro-grams to nurture future industry professionals.

“Replacing employees is not only about finding bodies; it’s about preserving and transferring the knowledge and experience tenured employees bring to the table to a new generation,” one of the panel executives noted. “We have individuals with decades of service who possess irreplaceable knowledge. How can we capture and transfer that knowledge? How do we find individuals interested in pursuing these jobs today?”

Harnessing the power of digital technology may play a significant role in solving those challenges. The panel expressed a strong need to integrate machine data with non-machine data to make informed real-time decisions on the plant floor, particularly as experienced employees retire and their wealth of machine-specific knowledge is no longer available.

The discussion also touched upon changing business conditions and opportunities that have been influenced by sustainability initiatives. Many participants expressed their belief that the reshoring of textile business from Asia to the western hemisphere makes sense and is a real eventuality. Companies must strive for greater efficiency in terms of energy usage and labor management to make reshoring more appealing.

The conversation ultimately centered on a commitment to investment in sustainable design and innovation, investing in the workforce, minimizing the environmental impact of manufacturing processes, and enhancing overall operational efficiency.

The U.S. textile industry’s leaders recognize the significance of sustainability and its multifaceted impact on their businesses. Those who wholeheartedly commit to this challenge are laying a solid foundation for their company’s successful endurance, ensuring a sustainable and prosperous future.

May/June 2023

By Jim Borneman, Editor In Chief

A common topic of conversation among U.S. textile executives is a shared concern about the development of future industry leaders. Often the question is focused on, “What can the industry do to attract bright young people of all stripes that will advance the industry into the future?”

This question affects existing companies but also the development of new companies chasing innovations and enhancing the definition of U.S. textiles.

This issue of Textile World features two articles that may help point to possible solutions.

One is the continuing developments at the Conover, N.C-based Manufacturing Solutions Center (MSC), part of Catawba Valley Community College. The MSC’s mission is captured in the article’s subhead: “The center’s Incubator Program is seeking entrepreneurs looking to realize their dreams.” The MSC assists new companies to manufacture product onsite with access to the MSC’s equipment, resources and services.

Companies including Nufabrx, InnovaKnits, Yu Apparel Corp. and Evolved by Nature, currently take advantage of the Incubator Program. Their stories are inspiring and illustrate how the MSC assists these start-ups in realizing their vision — offering pilot-scale manufacturing and providing necessary shared resources that would be out of reach for a typical start-up.

A new 75,000-square-foot facility was recently constructed adjacent to the current space —Manufacturing Solutions Center II — a partnership between the City of Conover, MSC, Catawba Valley Community College and private investment firm Whiskbroom. The additional space extends the opportunity to more entrepreneurs.

TW also spoke with Dr. Andre West, associate professor, and director of the Zeis Textiles Extension (ZTE) at Raleigh, N.C.-based NC State University’s Wilson College of Textiles, about the recently announced Flex Factory.

West explained that the Flex Factory is a two-phase project with phase one, “The Prototype Lab,” providing an environment for “students, researchers, start-ups and industry where ideation, innovation, collaboration with a focus on sustainable manufacturing can thrive.
“Phase II involves a complete space up fit and renovation to bridge our current Senior Design course space with the Flex Factory space and add additional features including a materials library and conference rooms.” Phase II is expected to be complete by the end of 2024.

The Flex Factory concept forges a strong link between textile students and the realities of industry and entrepreneurship.

West stated that there are fours things necessary for the Flex Factory’s success. First, assistance with acquiring the latest textile equipment – for the Flex Factory to be a “working showcase for cutting-edge equipment, especially equipment with a small footprint.”

Second, projects from industry are needed to challenge the students and faculty.

Third is funding to make Phase II happen at the university.

And lastly, industry engagement is encouraged because “ … seeing it first-hand with the machines running is the best way to understand the vision.”

MSC and the Flex Factory are both first-class examples of leadership development — honing new companies and students, soon to be the industry’s new blood, into catalysts of change enhancing the U.S. textile industry.

March/April 2023

Coming off the challenging but strong year in 2022, the textile industry faces additional challenges and opportunities in 2023.

This issue of Textile World features a review of investments made last year in the industry — and it is an impressive list. Companies large and small in a variety of diverse industry sectors clearly illustrate an appetite for investing in U.S. textiles.

Large, historic companies like Mount Vernon Mills and Milliken & Company continue to invest in capacity. On the other hand, family owned business Beverly Knits is creating new opportunities with Creative Dyeing & Finishing LLC. The acquisition gives Beverly the ability to provide solutions from knitting all the way to a completed garment.

Yes, there are headwinds in the economy with rising interest rates, inflation and faltering economies around the globe. But there also are positive trends like near-shoring and the clear demonstration that global supply chains are vulnerable — a fact made evident during the pandemic.

The year 2023 also is a year jam packed with industry events with something for everybody — ITMA 2023, INDEX23, JEC World 2023, Techtextil North America/Texprocess Americas and the Advanced Textiles Expo, just to name just a few. But the schedule begs the questions: Has COVID changed the show and sales environment significantly? Will people want to participate? Will exhibitors invest? Will attendees travel?

The consensus seems cautious, but optimistic on both fronts. There are many people who miss the networking and sense of discovery that trade shows bring, as well as the search for and discovery of new technologies that can be leveraged or considered in a company’s investment plans.

The strong dollar may hurt U.S. exports but compared to recent years, it creates a buying opportunity for U.S. companies to purchase equipment from euro-denominated suppliers.

In addition, there is investment chasing new dominant trends in the industry that are tied to green and sustainable manufacturing — things that measurably reduce the carbon footprint of textile manufacturing. Technologies that reduce consumption of water, energy, use more environmentally friendly chemistries, and less of them, are sought after. And new materials that have a “greener” story than traditional products are being explored. It seems that brands and retailers continue to drive demand. And demand parameters have changed over the past five years.

The cheap needle and a blind eye to sources have shifted to a place of valuing things such as traceability, authenticity and ethical origins of manufacture. More and more, companies are appointing a chief sustainability officer or vice president of sustainability. It may not be a bad thing to see these initiatives and investments valued in the supply chain.

Surely, 2023 will see accelerating changes in the industry. The one thing that has always stood out about U.S. textiles is the companies that are successful have found success because of quick and smart adoption of innovations and acceptance of change. By all counts those qualities remain important today.

Fingers crossed that a negative black swan doesn’t shift the gears of the post-COVID recovery, and just maybe 2023 will yield more opportunities and fewer challenges.

January/February 2023

By Jim Borneman, Editor In Chief

You may notice something missing from this issue of Textile World. And there is something missing from the work that goes on behind the scenes at TW as well.
Long-time editor and contributor Jim Phillips passed away in early November after an extended period of declining health. His monthly “Yarn Market” column was as important to him as it was to TW readers.

Jim came to the textile magazines as part of a major restaffing in 2000. The then publishers wanted to try something different as many of the staff left traditional publishing to participate in the dot com boom. The idea was to have a mixed staff of
textile professionals and journalists to focus on meaningful textile content. Jim was the journalist on the new team. He took on the role of executive editor and made sure the content was up to established standards and editorial integrity. There are many rules in publishing, and Jim with his experience and as an honors graduate of the University of South Carolina College of Journalism, was well up to the task.

Jim was Greenville, S.C.-focused. He had worked for various newspapers including
The Greenville News, several advertising agencies in Greenville, and the Greenville Chamber of Commerce.

Executive Editor Rachael Davis was one of the textile hires for the new team in 2000. “Jim was hugely supportive of me when I began my career at TW,” she said. “I showed up with my degree in polymer and textile chemistry — so a wealth of knowledge about textiles and
textile processes — but little to no knowledge of business writing and journalism ways.
“Jim didn’t judge; he just took me under his wing. He mentored and guided me through writing my first feature stories with valuable feedback and helpful criticism. He was always willing to help, even long after he was a full-time employee with the publication.

“When he returned as a contributing editor, it was wonderful to work with him again. I will miss our monthly phone calls to talk about deadlines and other life minutiae.”

After several years, and having never relocated to Atlanta where the magazines were based, Jim left TW, but not really. He landed a fulfilling job as a writer for IBM. But when the “Yarn Market” column needed a new editor in 2007, Jim gladly took the job saying at the time, “… it pleases me to be asked to rejoin TW and be the shepherd of this column.”

Like Rachael, my role with the magazines may have never happened without Jim’s
support. As a textile engineer with several different roles in the industry, I was hired as editor in chief to work on the editorial plan for the magazines making sure there was a balance of content serving the various sectors of the industry.

My hiring was contingent on meeting with and hiring Jim, who was suggested by Sheree Turner out of the Greenville office. In the early days of the new team, there was a lot
to learn about what it took to plan, write and publish a magazine and without the digital tools available today, sometimes, it was messy. But Jim had things under control.

In speaking with his wife Marie, she confided that having retired from IBM, writing “Yarn Market” was very important to him even as it became more and more difficult to prepare — but he refused to miss a deadline.

Thank you James Curtis Phillips Jr. for all your contributions as an editor and a friend.

November/December 2022

By Jim Borneman, Editor In Chief

In this issue of Textile World, the cover story, “CiCLO®: Just One Arrow In The Microfiber Pollution Solution Quiver” highlights three impressive points.

It is refreshing to see the U.S. textile industry acknowledge, address and invest in solving serious environmental challenges.

Environmental issues facing the industry have always been taken seriously, but on some level the industry has had a contentious relationship with environmental regulators.
There is a strong history of progress on improving the relationship and impact of
textile manufacturing on the environment — who doesn’t want clean air, clean water and efficient use of clean power?

In truth, the relationship between textile manufacturing and the environment really has moved to the next level.

Now, in some cases, effluent leaving the plant is cleaner than the water entering the plant. Technological improvements in textile dyeing, printing and finishing have reduced both consumption and waste of water, dyes and chemicals. Digital printing, new indigo technology, waterless dyeing, and improved foam and spray application of finishes are perfect examples.

The next level of improvement is focused on embracing sustainability and the full life cycle of products the industry creates.

Recycling technologies have moved from a fringe group of manufacturers to the mainstream with recycled polyester in common use. Apparel brands have been supportive and demanded sustainable solutions for their products which has encouraged manufactures to invest and innovate with new technologies.

Acknowledging the man-made microfiber pollution challenge — the impact fiber and plastic five millimeters in length loose in the environment — goes a long way to developing serious solutions.

The CiCLO story is a prime example of developing a serious solution. As Co-founder and CEO of Intrinsic Advanced Materials and Co-inventor of CiCLO technology Andrea Ferris explained: “CiCLO technology gets blended with conventional or recycled polyester and nylon during melt extrusion at the very beginning of the fiber manufacturing process. It becomes permanently embedded in the fiber, so it never washes out.”

CiCLO provides nutrients that encourages microbes to biodegrade the polyester or
nylon within which the CiCLO is embedded. One can only imagine the breadth of
environmental impact this technology will have and the proof is in the partnership.
In 2018, Intrinsic Textiles Group LLC and Parkdale Advanced Materials — the fibers
and yarns innovation division of Parkdale Inc., Gastonia, N.C. — formed a joint venture named Intrinsic Advanced Materials.

Ferris stated: “As the largest spun yarn manufacturer in the Western Hemisphere, Parkdale’s production of polyester-containing yarns exceeds 500 million pounds per
year. It has taken a leadership position in delivering sustainable solutions for the
textile industry and CiCLO is the proven technology to mitigate microfiber pollution generated by man-made textiles.”

It is that kind of leadership — acknowledging, addressing and investing in solving serious environmental challenges that takes the textile industry’s relationship with the environment to the next level — and into the future.

September/October 2022

By Jim Borneman, Editor In Chief

Energy and energy policies are impacting almost every aspect of daily life. Individuals, families, the workplace, companies, cities, states, nations — all face the global impact of the changing world of energy.

It is difficult to address the energy issue because the emotional topic has climate change at its roots — a place where no discussion seems possible.
The only way for the conversation to proceed is to stipulate that climate is an issue facing everyone and that greener energy policies are a good thing.

That said, how fast and at what cost green solutions take hold seems to take center stage. The answers range from “now and at any cost” to “as technology permits and when solutions become affordable.”

Unsatisfying outcomes and unintended consequences riddle the the global landscape from well-intentioned energy policies.

If you’ve run a company, a department or even taken part in managing your family’s affairs, you’ve wittingly or unwittingly managed change — or some form of transition from something to something.

Maybe you were an early cell phone adopter — a product that has morphed from a suitcase, to a “handphone,” to a flip phone and on to today’s smartphone. Technology always drove changes as both the devices and the infrastructure needed to support them changed. Cellphone technology changed communications very quickly and over a short period of time because it offered promising solutions and utility at an ever more affordable cost.

This is not a perfect analogy to the energy transition, but the comparison has its merits.
Cellphone technology was not driven by making landline calls more expensive. But then again, cellphone technology didn’t face — in some people’s minds — an existential threat.

Transition and technology go hand-in-hand. To leave one technology behind and adopt a new technology — this transition is a from and to game.

If you want a printer to transition from rotary screen-printing technology in a plant, you need to have a superior digital printing technology to transition to, along with benefits in energy consumption, quality, labor, productivity and environmental impact — all at an affordable cost.

The energy transition will eventually be solved the same way. Just as fracking unlocked the natural gas boom in the United States, and coal fired power plants converted to natural gas creating important reductions in emissions.

Green hydrogen could be a viable solution. Using wind or solar energy to power storable hydrogen generation could eliminate the battery storage problem. The hydrogen, and its store of energy, could be used to power cars and other users of electricity through its zero-emission release of power with advanced fuel cell technology.

The U.S. Department of Energy (DoE) also is focused on developing “Generation IV” nuclear reactors. The sodium-cooled fast reactor, the very high temperature reactor, and the molten salt reactor are “three designs [the DoE is] currently working on with industry partners to help meet our future energy needs in a cost-competitive way.”

Energy, it’s about technology and time — how fast, and at what cost?

July/August 2022